How to Read a Surf Forecast
One of the trickiest things when surfing in the ocean is understanding the surf forecast.
Will the waves be good? Will it be too big? Too small? Which beach should you go to?
Surf forecast websites now give huge amounts of information. They often include wave size, wind predictions and even suggested surf ratings. However, these ratings are not always right for your level of surfing.
In our experience many beginner and intermediate surfers miss good days because they rely too heavily on the forecast rating. At the same time, some inexperienced surfers paddle out on days that are far beyond their comfort zone.
Learning to read a surf forecast yourself helps you make better decisions and choose the right days for your ability.
If you understand the six basic elements below, you will start to read forecasts with far more confidence.
Wave Period
Wave period is the time gap between waves, measured in seconds.
In general, a longer period means the waves carry more power.
On the east coast of Scotland, the North Sea usually produces wave periods between 7 and 10 seconds. These waves are ideal for beginners and intermediate surfers who want to practise and have fun.
Occasionally we see longer period swells of 11 to 16 seconds generated by winter storms in the North Atlantic. Even small swells with long periods can produce powerful waist to shoulder high waves along our coastline.
Surf Size
The size of the waves depends on several factors.
Storm strength, storm duration and the distance the wind travels across the sea all influence wave size. The longer a storm blows across the ocean, the more energy it transfers into the water.
Local geography can also change the wave size you see at the beach.
For example, a north swell hitting the east coast of Scotland can be partially blocked by the coastline around Fife and Aberdeenshire. This creates a shadow effect. As a result, places west of Dunbar such as North Berwick may see smaller waves than Dunbar itself.
Further south in places like Newcastle or Yorkshire, the same swell may produce much larger waves.
Tides
Tides can dramatically affect surf conditions.
In East Lothian, spring tides can have a range of up to six metres between high and low tide. Neap tides usually have a range closer to two metres.
Because of this, some surf spots work better at certain tidal stages. Some beaches perform best at high tide, while others break better on mid or low tide.
On large spring tides the incoming tide can also increase the wave size as the water pushes toward the shore.
Wind Strength and Direction
Wind direction plays a huge role in wave quality.
Ideally we want offshore winds, which blow from the land toward the sea. These winds help hold the wave face clean and make waves easier to surf.
Onshore winds blow from the sea toward the beach. Strong onshore winds often create messy, choppy waves that are harder to ride.
Cross-shore winds blow across the coastline and can also affect the shape of the waves.
It is also worth noting that strong offshore winds can sometimes reduce wave size if they push against the incoming swell.
Swell Direction
Swell direction tells you where the waves are coming from.
If the swell hits the beach directly, the waves are usually larger and more powerful. If the swell arrives from an angle, the waves may be smaller.
Swell direction also affects wave shape. Certain directions can produce clean A-frame waves, while others cause waves to close out along the entire beach.
Spending time observing how different swells affect your local beach will help you choose better surf days in the future.
Location
Your location choice should always be based on the forecast conditions.
Think about how the coastline might affect the wind and swell. For example, cliffs may provide protection from strong winds.
At Belhaven Beach, the crescent-shaped coastline offers multiple options depending on wind direction and swell size. This allows surfers of different levels to find waves suitable for their ability.
Learning Through Experience
Reading surf forecasts takes time and practice.
For Belhaven, we generally recommend beginners look for wave heights between 0.5 and 1.5 metres (around 1 to 4 feet). These conditions usually provide excellent waves for learning and improving.
You can also check our surf forecast page for helpful links and weekly updates on expected conditions at Belhaven.
If you would like to learn more about reading surf forecasts, our surf lessons and surf camps include detailed guidance to help you understand ocean conditions and make better decisions in the water.
